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St Augustine's Abbey
and the Royal Palace
Written by Tim
Tatton-Brown, then Director of CAT
and Margaret Sparks, Honorary Historian to CAT, 1984
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The Great Gate
drawn by H. J. White (reprinted from The Builder,
Nov 20, 1886)
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The
abbey of Saints Peter and Paul, which is situated outside the eastern
walls of the City of Canterbury, is the oldest Anglo-Saxon abbey
in England. It was founded by St Augustine and King Aethelbert in
about 598 and from its earliest years was intended as a burial place
for the archbishops of Canterbury and the kings of Kent. As it housed
the monks sent from Roman for the conversion of the English, it
became a great centre of learning.
After the chaos
of the Viking invasions, it re-emerged in the tenth century as the
only surviving monastery in Kent, since all the others had been
destroyed by the invaders. In 978 a new enlarged abbey church was
re-dedicated by Archbishop Dunstan to 'Saints Peter and Paul and
St Augustine of England'.
The foundations
of the original church lay under the nave of the later abbey. To
the east was the chapel of St Mary, destroyed in the making of the
later crypt. In 1055 these two small buildings were joined by an
octagonal tower into one larger church. Further east again was the
chapel of St Pancras, the only pre-conquest structure to survive
in part above ground until the dissolution.
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With the coming of the Normans a new era began. A Norman abbot was
appointed in 1070 and by about 1100 a great Romanesque church had
been built. The Anglo-Saxon church had to be destroyed in the process
and in 1091 the bodies of the early archbishops were moved from
the north side of the old church to the eastern part of the new
one. New monastic buildings were constructed round a cloister aligned
to the new church (chapter house, dorter, reredorter, frater, cellarium)
and to the east was the infirmary with hall and chapel. To the south
of the church was an ancient cemetery, which was expanded south
into Longport, the abbey's market outside the wall, and the Sacrist's
office was beside the cemetery. To the west outside the gate an
Almonry was built in 1154.
After a pause
in the late twelfth century (except for the east end of the church
having to be rebuilt after a fire in 1168), there was a great period
of reconstruction and expansion from the mid thirteenth century.
The cloister, lavatorium, frater and kitchen were totally rebuilt
and the cellarium in the west cloister range was replaced by a very
grand new abbot's lodging, and the range was extended to provide
a great hall. A new crenellated Great Gate opposite completed the
Inner Great Court in 1309. On the north the monks were able to close
a lane and take in much more land in the North Holmes area, which
provided space for a new outer court with cellarer's range, brewhouse,
bakehouse etc, and ultimately in 1320 a new walled vineyard. There
was also expansion on the east where a series of lodgings were added
to the east side of the infirmary and a new walled cellarer's garden
was enclosed.
After another
pause during the plague years, more reconstruction took place in
the late fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, particularly after
the 1382 earthquake had cracked several buildings. The surviving
cemetery gate was built in 1390 and near it at the south- west end
of the church a large bell-tower was added in the late fifteenth
century. The last addition was a new Lady Chapel east of the apse
of the church. This chapel and the bell-tower lasted for less than
fifty years.
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The ruins of
Aethelbert's Tower
drawn by William Stukeley 1722
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CALC Map 123
(c.1640)
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The abbey was the
fourteenth richest in England according to a valuation of 1535 with a
gross income of £1,733. At the Dissolution in 1538 this income and the
great complex shown on the plan overleaf were ripe for exploitation by
Henry VIII. As it happened, the king decided to keep the abbot's lodging
as a new royal palace in Canterbury. He later ordered that a new adjoining
range of buildings be constructed on the south side of the Inner Great
Court where the east and west ranges had been adapted for his use. This
was for his new queen, Anne of Cleves, who was expected in England shortly.
Three hundred or so workmen consequently worked day and night from 5th
October to 21st December 1539 (thirty one dozen extra candles were ordered
and charcoal in earthenware braziers was used to dry out the plaster in
a hurry). Al was just ready for the Lady Anne to stay there one night
on 29th December before moving on to meet the king at Rochester. After
this the palace was rarely used by Henry VIII and his successors (Elizabeth
I briefly in 1573, Charles I in 1625 and Charles II in 1660). It was granted
to Cardinal Pole (1556-8) and later part of the palace was leased as a
nobleman's house, to Lord Cobham for thirty years from 1564, and to Edward
Lord Wotton from 1612. He employed John Tradescant the elder to lay out
the gardens east of the palace, as shown on the fine plan of Canterbury
of c. 1640.
The palace remained
intact, though becoming increasingly ruinous, until the end of the seventeenth
century and it was perhaps the great storm of 1703 which finally destroyed
the buildings, since it caused the fall of the northern half of 'Aethelbert's
Tower'. Stukeley's drawing of 1722 and all the subsequent views show the
south and east ranges of the Inner Great Court as ruined and being slowly
demolished (the rest of the tower was taken down in 1822).
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Two
plans drawn by John Bowen show all that is known to date of the topography
and buildings of both the medieval abbey and the king's palace. The
plans are not suitable as screen images.If you would like photocopies
(free of charge) contact Marion Green, Education Officer at CAT, by
phone (+44 (0) 1227 462062) or e.mail.
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©
Canterbury Archaeological Trust Ltd 2000
This page was last updated on 03.05.05
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